Repainting wooden windows, doors and joinery

Note: For a visual of the steps below outlining how to prepare and repaint wooden windows, doors and joinery, please reference the PDF flowchart.

1. Treat moss and mould using Resene Moss & Mould Killer (D80)
2. Thoroughly wash and scrub using Resene Paint Prep and Housewash (D812), a Scotchbrite pad is ideal
3. Sand any flaking paint and inside facings of the window and frame
4. Spot prime using Resene Quick Dry primer (D45) or Resene Wood Primer (D40)
5. Replace any putty using Red Devil synthetic putty, fill any nail holes etc, spot prime putty using Resene Wood Primer (D40) after allowing 24 hours to cure
6. Paint options:
   1. We recommend 2 coats of Resene Lustacryl semi-gloss waterborne enamel (D310)  OR
   2. Alternatively for high gloss finish recommend 2 coats of Resene Enamacryl gloss waterborne enamel (D309)
      

Note: For more information on products, view the Product Data Sheet referred to in ( ) after the product name.

Notes:

• The best way to wash and prepare windows is to use Resene Paint Prep and Housewash and 3M scourer or Scotchbrite pad, which is effective at reaching edges and recesses of windows.

• Although not always done, the top, internal and bottom faces of the window should be painted.

• Hack out and replace putty that has dried out and come loose – we recommend Red Devil or Bostik Synthetic putty as they can be primed within 24 hours with Resene Wood Primer and then painted with Resene Lustacryl or Resene Enamacryl. Traditional putty needs to cure for two weeks.

• The inside faces will need sanding to ‘de-gloss’ them. Old enamel paint not exposed to U.V. light (the inside faces of windows and frames in particular) gets harder and more brittle over time and will need thorough sanding before painting. The exposed faces will need washing to ‘de-chalk’ if the paintwork is sound.

• Substrates that are exposed at a 45 degree angle to the sun are subject to twice the level of U.V. attack that a vertical or horizontal surface will. In the same way that our nose will get sun burnt more quickly that our cheeks. This is why the top edge of a window sill will deteriorate more quickly than other painted surfaces.

• We recommend Resene Lustacryl as its lower gloss conceals imperfections more effectively than the higher gloss Resene Enamacryl.

Key accessories essential to complete the job

• Resene Moss & Mould Killer
• Resene Paint Prep and Housewash
• Scotchbrite pad
• A good quality brush is recommended
  - 35-50mm Legend Cutting in brush
• Contract filler for any cracks or nailheads
• 100-120 grit zinc sterate sandpapers for preparing and 180-220 grit for sanding fillers etc.
• Paint pot to decant into
• Red Devil Putty and Putty Knife if needed
• Scraper and spare blades to remove excess dry paint from window

Add ons – to make the job easier or quicker

• Drop sheets
• Resene Hot Weather Additive for hot dry conditions
• Resene Galvo-One (D41) for spot priming galvanised iron flashings
• Turps for Resene TimberLock (D48), Resene Galvo-One or Resene Wood Primer if needed
• Painter gloves (good for sanding and painting)
• Resene MoulDefender

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